Looking for an up-to-date reference (PDF or app) on Adams Rite 4510/4710 deadlatch tolerances and strike alignment on aluminum doors. I’m still carrying a 2018 catalog; I tune with feeler gauges and test 200+ cycles for reliable relock, but I’d like current specs to confirm adjustments and cut down on callbacks.
Ditched my 2018 book for Adams Rite’s current install sheets — 4510/4710 PDFs are on the product pages (e.g., 4510 Standard Duty Deadlatch | Adams Rite) — and I’ve cut callbacks by shimming the strike so the latch nose rests dead center, then cycling with a business‑card spacer to mimic weatherstrip. Caveat: with the 4710, get the strike lip perfectly flush and keep the roller free; feeler gauges alone lie if the door sags mid‑cycle.
One trick that cut my callbacks on 4510/4710s: after I set the strike by spec, I color the latch and aux bolt with a Sharpie and run your “200+ cycles” while slipping a 0.030" hinge-side shim for a few passes to mimic bow; if the ink shows any touch on the aux, I open the strike window a hair rather than tightening the gap.
Same goal here; after setting by the current install sheet, I preload the door with a wedge against the stop and make sure the “aux bolt stays buried” with both push and pull — if it creeps free on either, I nudge the keeper lip. Latest sheets for 4510/4710 are here: 4510 Standard Duty Deadlatch | Adams Rite. Caveat: older aluminum frames are often bowed, so I’ll spot‑file the back of the keeper instead of opening the face wider.
I set the strike using a 0.010 in shim behind it and stick blue tape on the ramp; if the tape polishes evenly and the trigger stays buried with both push and pull, it passes 200+ cycles for me. For current numbers, I check updates here: https://www.adamsrite.com/en/products/latches/deadlatches/ — caveat: on flexy aluminum I bias it a hair tight and let the closer nudge it home, like aligning a stubborn zipper.