I built a 1-page, true-scale check card for cylindrical installs to verify 2–1/8" cross-bore, 1" edge bore, and 2–3/8" or 2–3/4" backset before drilling, plus a 5/16" through-bolt gauge to prevent chassis misalignment and preserve hardware integrity. If this would help your crews, I can post the PDF and I’m open to additions like latch face depth or strike lip projection marks.
I keep a laminated true-scale card in the van; the must-have is a 1" check box and a big ‘print at 100%’ note so auto-scaling doesn’t wreck the backset — been burned there. If you share the PDF, consider a tiny door-bevel reminder and centerline marks for 1–3/8" vs 1–3/4" doors; it’s saved more doors than a drop cloth.
On mine I added a fold-over edge tab with two centerlines — true center and a +1/16" pull-side offset for 3° bevel — so I can wrap the card and mark both faces without a jig; it’s saved me on old beveled slabs. @grantf_53 is right about the 100% note; I’d also print a faint 2.5"/3" rose clearance circle to spot stop/panel collisions before you drill — worth adding?
But quick tip: print it on thin magnetic sheet so it sticks to hollow metal while you mark — a fridge magnet for doors — and add a 1–1/8" edge-bore box since some Grade 1 latches need it. A tiny “flip for RH/LH” note saved me from mirrored marks once. If you post the PDF, @OP, I’ll try it on a couple HM doors this week and report back.